Varca and Cavelossim

Overview

Varca and Cavelossim are quieter beach villages at the southern end of Salcete's coast, beyond Benaulim and short of Mobor, and the thing that distinguishes them is the landscape. Dark lava rocks break up the white sand, paddy fields sit behind the shore, and at Cavelossim the Sal River runs along the landward edge before reaching the sea. There are few formal sights, so this is a place to choose for a stay beside the water, with October to March as the sensible months.

Varca is known above all for the row of wooden fishing boats pulled up on its beach by the local Christian fishing community. Rock outcrops break the waterline, black lava against green vegetation behind, and the long rocks are used for fishing as well as for scenery. Calm blue water meets pale sand along the shore, and walking it while the boats come and go is the main thing to do.

Cavelossim lies about 15 km south of Margao, with Carmona beach to the north and Mobor beach to the south. Its setting is unusual for Goa: the sea on one side, the Sal River on the other, and paddy land between them. Long beach walks are the staple activity at Cavelossim, boat trips go out from it to look for dolphins, and the river itself is used for boating. The Sal is a short river of about 16 km that starts near Verna and passes Benaulim, Varca, Carmona, Assolna, Cavelossim and Mobor before meeting the sea at Betul, which is why this stretch feels tied to water in two directions at once.

Neither village has a monument of its own, so anyone wanting churches or markets will drive north to Benaulim, Colva or Margao. The nearest airport is Dabolim, roughly 30 km from Varca and 35 km from Cavelossim by road, with drives of 34 to 39 minutes on a routing site. Madgaon Junction, in Margao, is the railway station for both. Two days is plenty, or a long weekend if you simply want somewhere to sit by the sea.

Known for

A row of boats drawn up on the beach by the local fishing community